Trying to start the car with the wrong ignition key can lead up to a 20-minute delay. Security system: Finally, the electronics of the security system can bedevil drivers. It is easy to forget about the spark plugs when their replacement schedule is 100,000 miles. Spark plugs: Secondary ignition system problems, although rare nowadays, can cause a no-start. Moist air may condense in the fuel tank as the temperature changes and the resulting water settles to the bottom of the tank. To avoid water in the tank, which could turn to ice in the lines, keep your tank at least half-full in very cold weather.
A can of Iso-Heet in the tank may avoid trouble. If you listen closely, you should be able to hear the in-tank pump running for a few seconds when you first turn the key to the “on” position before cranking the starter.įrozen fuel line: It occurs, but not as frequently where ethanol is blended into the fuel. Check that needle.įuel pump: Even if the tank is full, a weak or failed fuel pump relay may prevent the fuel from reaching the engine. Gas: Is the car out of gas? Yeah, it sounds dumb, but it happens. If the starter cranks the engine normally, but the engine refuses to run, the battery, starter and alternator are probably fine. If the starter does not even turn, its relay or solenoid may be shot or the ignition switch could be the culprit. If you hear a grinding clashing sound like trying to shift with a bad clutch, the starter drive gear or the engine’s flywheel (ring gear) may have damaged teeth. It will spin slowly and draw excessive power. Starter: A bad starter may give the illusion of a weak battery if it draws more current than the battery is able to supply. If you have a gauge on your instrument panel, it should show about 14 volts.Įven a perfectly functioning alternator may not recharge the battery during short trips, especially if the headlights, wipers, heater, radio, rear window defroster and heated seats are on. If the charging system output is poor, there may be no warning light. If the alternator fails or the belt breaks, a warning light illuminates. Although the alternator could be the culprit, don’t overlook a worn or slipping accessory drive belt. They will not only check the battery condition, they will test the charging and starting systems all at the same time.Īlternator: If it is not up to snuff, the battery may not charge.
CAR WON T START AND GEAR SHIFT WON T MOVE FREE
Many auto parts stores and some repair shops offer free testing. With today’s hand-held testers, the job only takes a couple of minutes. If you have doubts about the battery’s condition, have it tested.
The cables should be removed and their connectors cleaned. Corrosion causes resistance to starting and to proper charging as the car is running.īad positive battery cable connections at the power distribution center (usually that fuse block under the hood) or negative connection (usually to a bolt on the engine or body) mimics dirty cables and terminals. Sometimes it is as simple as charging the battery and cleaning the terminals and cable clamps. Just because you had to jump the battery, it may not be shot. Cheap cables may not be able to carry the electrical current to start the stranded car. The lower the gauge number, the heavier the cable. Some high-end jumper cables (also called booster cables) are designed to prevent inadvertently connecting them incorrectly.Ĭhoose heavy-gauge cables. Learn the proper sequence of connecting and disconnecting the cables as well as where the clamps should be attached. Improper polarity may also damage either the donor or recipient vehicle. Making the wrong connections can cause sparks. Know the proper way to jump-start a vehicle. If the clamps are secure, the battery likely needs a jump. Tightening loose clamps may get you on your way. Make sure the clamps can’t easily slip off the battery terminals.
Usually, jump-starting the car will get you on the road, but be sure to find the cause of the dead battery or the situation will recur. Even the telltale lights on the instrument panel may dim when you turn the key. When the battery voltage drops even further, there will be no sound. As the voltage drops further, the sound may become a staccato K-K-K. You will hear that slow, groaning RRR-RRR-RRR sound. If the battery is weak, but not totally dead, the starter may turn slowly. ■The engine will not crank or cranks slowly.ĭead battery: A dead battery is the No. No-starts fall into two basic categories: To make matters worse, your car won’t start.
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